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CAMPERVAN HIKING NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | The Catlins

The Catlins, or the Catlin Coast, was rugged and remote – a mix of beaches, farms, waterfalls, rare birds, rain forests, and towns that looked as if they had not been inhabited for ages. Once again – there was NOBODY in sight. We attempted a few small hikes to waterfalls, but gave up when it was clear the off-roading (and cattle herds) weren’t getting us anywhere. We walked across petrified logs, searched for yellow-eyed penguins (no luck), hiked across green pastures to a blow hole, and explored private (seemingly abandoned) beaches. My favorite place on our road trip was Jack’s Bay, the trailhead for Jack’s blow hole hike. This small beach town reminded me of another time and place.

If you’ve ever seen the movie Summer of ’42 – it looked exactly like that.

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CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Te Anau to Invercargill

Invercargill is the southernmost and westernmost city in NZ, located in what is known as “Southland.” From what I read/gathered, it sounded as if people from the “Southland” were equivalant to Southerners in the U.S. – the whole Southern hospitality thing. I’m not sure if that’s true or if it was something the guidebook made up because we found Kiwis to be friendly and hospitable regardless of location.

We didn’t have any real motivation to head to such a remote area – there was nothing “to see” per se – but maybe it was just that remoteness that drew us there.South NZ (and for that matter, most of NZ from what we could tell on a map) is all farmland. We saw deer farms and of course, lots and lots of sheep and lamb. The resulting plush green rolling hills, peppered with little lambs was so idyllic and “natural”, that it was hard to believe that everything used to be woods and trees. We read that something like 75% of the natural environment – trees, forests, etc – was stripped and made into farmland during the peak of European colonization. It was also crazy to us to read that the only native animals to NZ are birds…pretty much everything else was imported.

One such “invasive species” brought by the Euros was the possum. We heard differing stories about why they were brought to NZ (fur trade, or used by farmers as a way of natural pest control), however, since there were no natural predators of the possum in NZ, their population ran rampant. The debate over possums could be found everywhere we went in NZ – from the poisons used to kill the possums seeping into the water stream to the commercially driven approach to possum control (selling ‘possum merino’ products). To me, it seemed a bit hypocritical to argue possums being “bad” because they eat bird eggs and strip forests…when humans and farming has pretty much done the same thing, if not worse. Not taking a side, but just pointing out the obvious.Debates aside, in this quiet part of the South Island, we saw hardly any tourists or tour buses.In fact, it’s quite likely that sheep outnumbered the human population.

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CAMPERVAN HIKING NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Milford Sound

Are you tired of waterfalls, mountains, and beautiful scenery? Well, there’s more.

Milford Sound — it’s really everything the guidebooks said and more. It’s beautiful. It’s spectacular. And if you get there before the tour buses and tour boats start shuttling people to and fro, it’s quiet, peaceful, and serene. We had already seen so many beautiful and amazing sights up to this point, but wow.

F-A-K-E

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CAMPERVAN HIKING NEW ZEALAND Wildlife

New Zealand | Routeburn track to Key Summit

Another boat, bus, and ferry ride later, we were back on dry land, and ready to hit up the streets of Te Anau.

I quite liked the town – a bit of an arty backpacker vibe, with cafe’s that charged $15 for ‘brekkie.’ We found a cafe that served ‘real’ coffee, otherwise known as “drip coffee” or “American style coffee” to the rest of the world. We gorged ourselves on pies from a place that sold only that. I’m not ashamed to admit we went back for seconds…At $5 NZ for a filling pie, it was a good deal. Eating out was expensive in NZ!

We also spent quite a bit of time in hot pursuit of an audio jack that allowed Sly to hook up his mp3 player to the radio. Until then, we had been playing the same four cds of “American Ballads” for I don’t know how many hours. It was maddening.

We planned on a pretty easy day…a drive to the other sound – Milford – hiking along the way, drive back…. Instead, the gentle winding roads and the green pastures of grazing sheep, lulled us to sleep. We pulled over at a random camp site, parked the car, and took a long nap in the warm sun.

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NEW ZEALAND OUTDOORS

New Zealand | Doubtful Sound

A half day of planes, trains, and automobiles, and we were finally on board our ship, and ready for our cruise. Our day pretty much went like this: more beauty, more wind, hot soup and warm bread, watching fellow tourist obsessed with drinking tea, watching American guy traveling with parents follow tourist obsessed with tea around the boat, kayaking, dolphins, dinnertime savagery, and the darkest, most silent night I have ever experienced. If we had been swallowed up by the blackness of the night, nobody would have ever known.

A note: this was probably the only time that I was made to feel bad for ‘lucking out’ with beautiful weather — the tour guides told us that the sounds were better viewed in bad weather, when the mist created the kind of eeriness seen in all the postcards and travel images of the sound. Oh well, guess sunny and beautiful would have to do.

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CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Bus to Doubtful Sound

Unlike Milford Sound, there wasn’t a public road that led directly to Doubtful Sound – you had to either fly in or charter a bus/tour. These roads on this little plot of land were built by the company that built the huge hydro plant, and were now used only for tour groups and plant workers. We chose Doubtful because of its remoteness – less tour ships, less people.

More beautiful views from the drive down the mountain to the sound:

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NEW ZEALAND OUTDOORS

New Zealand | Ferry to Doubtful Sound

The problem with keeping a travel blog is, if you don’t write things down as you’re going, you tend to forget/not update once home from the travels. It’s been quite a year (or months) since getting married and honeymooning in NZ, but so many little memories in between. I need to be better about this.

I had several days worth written and ready to go, unfortunately, another hard drive crash erased those logs (and some of our photos). It was not a good trip as far as electronic equipment goes…but more on that later.

What I remember about day 5 in New Zealand is that it was a beautiful day. We crossed Lake Te Anau by boat, and braved the wind up top as we cut through the bluest water ever. After docking on the other side of the lake, we caught a bus that took us to the Doubtful Sound area, where we then boarded our ship for an overnight cruise on the sound.

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