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CABINS HIKING HOLIDAYS NATIONAL PARKS Shenandoah VIRGINIA Wildlife

Shenandoah | 4th of July Weekend

We are extremely spoiled campers. In the past few years, we have made it a point to pretty much visit every campground in Northern California, and most in Socal and the lower Western states. We’ve been to some amazing lodges, cabins, and set up camp in some of the most remote and beautiful places. A better phrase to describe us would be outdoors snobs.

I’ve only visited the Northern tippy top of Shenandoah. We stayed in a nice cabin and built a big fire. It was beautiful, cozy, nice, but like I said, we are spoiled.

Our original plans for the 4th fell through, so on a whim, I checked the Shenandoah website – they had lodging available. We shrugged. Why not? As luck would have it, when Sly called the reservations desk, he timed it just right, snagging the last room – a cancellation moments earlier – at the always booked Big Meadows Lodge.

With zero expectations, we headed to the park and checked into our lodge, making it just in time to catch one of the most dazzling sunsets I have ever seen. The lodge had a very old vintage vibe, something I didn’t expect. Our cabin rooms, part of the original lodge, were built in the late 1930s at the time the land was dedicated as a national park. We opened the door to our room and were greeted by a total grandma’s attic smell. Specifically, the smell reminded me of some of the old 1930s mansions we had toured in California – musty, earthy, woody, and old. Our tiny, wood-paneled rooms were bare bones, equipped with electricity, plumbing, a simple bed, decorative  stone (once-working) fireplace, and coffee maker (with starbucks coffee). We spent most of our time reading (or cooking) in our room, hanging out in the great room of the lodge, watching wildlife and sunsets from the wraparound deck, and of course, lots of hiking.

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Auckland CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

Last day in New Zealand | Back to Auckland

Our final night in NZ, we decided to splurge on a suite in downtown Auckland. We found the most bizarre “champagne and strawberries” deal online, and booked a room at the historic Heritage Auckland – a 1920s Art Deco style department store that was converted into a hotel.

I don’t have any photos of our last day in Auckland – a combination of stupidity and another hard drive crash erased pictures taken during this time frame. All I really have are memories of that day and night — having a guy at a non-starbucks tell me that they couldn’t make me a tea latte becuase ‘they were not starbucks,’ sleeping in a ‘real’ bed, cleaning the campervan, drinking champagne and eating strawberries with hokie pokie sauce, watching music videos on tv, hanging out in the rooftop hot tub, exploring the streets of Auckland at night, eating amazing sushi, listening to a guy with a guitar sing ballads on the outdoor patio of our restaurant, finally having fresh new zealand oysters, and enjoying the last moments of our honeymoon together.nz_001 Continue Reading

BEACHES CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Coromandel Peninsula

Our good luck/bad luck continued.

Good:
– stayed at an amazing holiday park
– finally ate good fish and chips from out of a food truck
– met another cute kitty
– watched weird nz talent shows on the flat screen tv in the holiday park
– jumped on trampoline, and when we got tired, stargazed while lying on the trampoline
– ate Sly’s awesome hamburgers accompanied by oddly flavored NZ chips (we ate so many bags of chips on our trip)
– woke up, got coffee, went to the nearby hot water beach, rented shovels, dug a pit, and created our own ‘hot tub’ on the beach.
– explored many beaches and coves on Coromandel Peninsula
– found our own private beach, stayed there most of the day

Bad:
– lost two of my cameras when a rogue wave jumped the sand walls of the “hot tubs” dug into the sand, and swept my backpack to sea (the backpack was way up on shore, but apparently not far enough. Ugh_. Once recovered, two of my cameras were destroyed.
– stupid frenchy stole the hot tub I dug when I turned my back, and then had the gall to tell me it was her hot tub. Wrong answer, Frenchy.
– junky hot pies from a gas station
– lots of people, crowded beaches, limited parking, and our campervan got stuck on an incline, in the muddy grass. We spun our wheels and tried pushing the car for about 30 minutes before some nice tourists offered to help us push. Thank God we were able to get it unstuck.
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CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND OUTDOORS Wildlife

New Zealand | Bay of Plenty

We had high hopes when we reached the Eastern Coast of the North Island – an area referred to as “The Bay of Plenty.” The beaches and hot springs were supposed to be amazing, with crystal clear waters, beautiful parks. It sounded like a regular Shangri-la. Similarly, the description of the Tauranga holiday park we pulled into for the evening sounded amazing. According to the guidebook, it had thermal pools and an ocean view.

The left out the part about how it was more like a long-term live-in trailer park, rather than a holiday park. The “cottages” were actually occupied by long-term residents who had decorated their “front yards” with tires, discarded furniture and rusty chains. The “relaxing natural thermal pools” was a luke warm swimming pool (child’s size), with peeling paint. The kitchen was a little hodge podge, with mismatched tables of varying heights, a sketchy 1970s refrigerator, and a collection of about 50 mugs from various places in the world.

We had been looking forward to a nice holiday park all day, and were pretty let down when we rolled into town. But, we made the most of it, cooked ourselves up another gourmet dinner of  New Zealand mussels, popped open a bottle of NZ red, and watched the sunset from our concrete ‘dock’ that faced the highway. It couldn’t have been all that bad if we had a view like this, especially with all the wine we drank out of those purple plastic cups.

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ABSEILING CAMPERVAN CAVING NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Waitomo Caves

As soon as the hangi was over in Rotorua, we headed straight to Waitamo caves. We booked something called the “Lost World Epic” at the caves the following morning.

A short synopsis of the “Lost World Epic” – We dressed up like Japanese factory workers, hiked to a sinkhole, strapped into a harness (mine being so tight, that it cut off all circulation in my legs and had to be readjusted half-way down), abseiled (that’s rapelling for us Americans) 330 feet down into a limestone cave, hiked over huge slippery rocks and streams (all the while having to use our carabiners – which I thought were hooked onto us just for show – to lock ourselves in), saw some glo-worms, pet a friendly cave-dwelling eel, had a snack of chocolate covered marshmallow fish, climbed a rickety 330 foot ladder (in the dark) to get out of the opposite end of the cave, hiked back to the old barn, changed back into street clothes.

This was another tour noted as “good for beginners” and “extreme level: low.” Like I said, maybe Kiwi standards of what is “easy” and “beginner” is totally warped since everyone is so hardcore and extreme in NZ. The abseling was great (except for the strangled legs part), the experience was awesome, but I wouldn’t say it was for beginners. I would say it was more moderate in terms of difficulty level and hardcore factor, but definitely not “leisurely.” We had to double clip into wire ‘handrails’ laced throughout the cave. At first I thought it was just to give us something to do, and then I realized, when perched 50′ above the cave valley on a two inch wide platform, that the carabiners and ropes were there for a reason. They were there so stupid frightened tourists like myself didn’t fall to their deaths and put them out of business.

The worst part of the trip was the 300 foot climb up a slippery ladder, at a 90 degree angle. This required two safety ropes – a primary and a backup…you know, just in case. Besides that stupid ladder, and hiking over rocky terrain in rainboots, everything else about the trip was awesome.

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CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Rotorua

One of our guidebooks mentioned that Rotorua was the “Las Vegas of New Zealand.” It made me wonder how a town in the geothermic heartland of NZ could really make that sort of claim. The guidebook was right. Of all the towns we visited, Rotorua was the most built-up in a Vegas/theme park sort of way. The town consisted almost entirely of huge hotels and commercialized natural wonders that you could view if you were willing to part with a hundred bucks. I’m almost positive that any prepackaged tour of NZ that stops in this part of the North Island, comes to Rotorua. All we saw were tour buses, large tour groups (of mostly Europeans or retirees), and families.  Maybe the area outside of the city was amazing – we read about all kinds of secret hot springs, geysers, spas and thermal pools that were awesome and free – but we didn’t spend enough time here to find out. From what we experienced, unless you were on a tour, retired, or with kids, this would be a pretty annoying place to visit. For those people, guides, guidebooks, etc. who suggested this place to us: you suck.

The main reason we stopped in Rotorua was to experience the Maori Hangi, or feast. Similar to a luau, at a hangi, there’s dancing, singing, challenges, lots of fake acting, and a huge buffet of food cooked on stones from a deep hole in the ground. If you find it fun to be on a bus with a large group of Eastern Europeans, being prompted by the bus driver to pretend you are on a canoe, then you might enjoy a tour like this. Also, if you like things that involve ‘audience participation,’ introducing yourself to everyone else, eating at large buffet tables across from people you don’t know, watching cruise-ship level entertainment being performed half-heartedly, pushing through crowds to eat average, yet overly priced, buffet food, then this is perfect.

I found the entire thing to be extremely awkward – from the shuttle bus to the hangi (where the bus driver tried to get us to ‘paddle the canoe’), to the people laughing while the Maoris were sticking out their tongues (an ancient and serious tradition), to the odd sensation that the Maoris were being exploited/exploiting themselves, to the awkward silence of eating at a table of people you didn’t really know (didn’t expect that). You would need to be either extremely drunk, extremely bored, or extremely young to enjoy this. We did our best to make the most of it, and ended up befriending the cute elderly couple that sat across from us. That was the best part of the evening. The bus ride home, however, almost made me lose it. The same Eastern Euros from the ride over got drunk during dinner. The entire way home, we had to listen to them singing Polish folk songs…over…and over…and over…Shoot me.

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CAMPERVAN HIKING NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Tongariro National Park

Fans of LOTR – we climbed Mount Doom!

Besides the fact that a lot of the battle scenes for LOTR were filmed in this national park, the Tongariro Crossing was described as the “finest one-day walk in New Zealand.” Honestly, we had low expectations (especially given the hype) – how could anything beat the beauty of the South Island?

Well, there’s a reason why LOTR was filmed here – lots of volcanic activity has made climbing certain parts of the mountain extremely dangerous. But it was this same activity – hot steam coming out from beneath our feet – that made the entire journey so surreal. Add to that snow-covered mountains and emerald pools — it was truly a great hike.

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CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Wellington

For the most part, big cities = crappy holiday parks. I suppose I didn’t expect otherwise. Our first night in Wellington at the beginning of our trip, we became so lost trying to find the holiday park in BFE, that we gave up and slept in the parking lot of the ferry building. This time, we didn’t feel like being that ghetto, and after not finding a spot at the closest park, we drove further out to another park until finally we found a tiny sliver of grass to park our campervan.

The next morning, we drove into downtown Wellington (got lost again) to check out the Te Papa museum. While walking from the parking lot to the museum we heard this terrible screeching sound and a loud bang. We looked over and a car was spinning backward, a man was on the ground, and about 10 people were rushing to the scene. From piecing together what we thought we saw, it looked like a cyclist bolted out in front of a taxi, the taxi didn’t see/saw too late/wasn’t paying attention, swerved to avoid hitting the cyclist and ended up smashing into a trashcan and clipping or hitting the cyclist. The guy was lying on the ground motionless, surrounded by lots of blood. I stood absolutely paralyzed watching all of this, and I felt so sick to my stomach.

What impressed me most were all the good samaritans that instantly ran towards the man. A random guy walking down the street saw the accident and immediately ran to the cyclist, ripped off his shirt, and put it under the guy’s head. Another guy working at a hotel across the street ran through the traffic almost immediately, and started taking control of the situation. Having seen so many of those “What Would YOU Do” type shows on tv, their immediate reaction surprised me, especially in a city environment. Living in a big city for the past eight years, I’ve seen a lot of messed up stuff happen on the streets, and for the most part, people just look the other way, not wanting to get involved.

We contemplated offering what help we could, but then assessed that the people there were probably doing more than we could have done, and we didn’t want to get in their way. We stayed until we heard the ambulance come (which was quite a long time after), and then, shaken, we went inside the museum. I hope that guy was ok.

Anyway. The Te Papa Museum – a beautiful museum that pretty much sums up NZ’s culture, natural history, history, ecosystem, etc. It was like 10 museums rolled into one…and it was free (well, donation-based, which we felt very happy to hand over a donation given the awesomeness of the museum). Also, if you want to see THE giant squid — it’s here, and it’s massive. Note: They also have free and working internet.

We had breakfast and lots of coffee in their cafe (food was actually really good), and then spent the majority of the day exploring. It’s one of those museums you could really spend the entire day. I suppose if we had kids, they would have loved it too.IMG_4111 Continue Reading

CAMPERVAN NEW ZEALAND

New Zealand | Queen Charlotte Track aka The Track from Hell

A tip: if when going over a trail map with a local, and said person asks you if you’ve ever mountain biked before, and then starts laughing when you say no…that is probably not a good sign.

I anticipated a leisurely day. We would rent mountain bikes, board our water taxi, head to our drop off point at Torea Bay on the Queen Charlotte track, ride downhill on gravel roads, and end up at our pick up point with enough time to chat about the day’s events with a cup of coffee and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I had no idea what I was getting into, as evidenced by the photo below. Probably the last (and only) photo you’ll see of me smiling on this trip.

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Look how cluelessly happy I am – in my head I was thinking that this would be a piece of cake, especially since we were on bikes.

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