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FOOD GYEONGJU KOREA

Gyeongju | Hyeondae Makgeolli – 현대 막걸리

One weekend we took another last-minute, hastily “planned” road trip to the historic city of Gyeongju. Our sole guide and source of information was wikitravel, which seemed to contain just enough information for the amount of time we had. Our goal for the weekend was to take in some of the historic sites, see a temple or two, set up camp, maybe go on a hike and of course eat some good food. In particular a restaurant described by wikitravel as being “foolish to miss.”

The drive to Gyeongju was short — only about an hour from Deagu — and beautiful. We passed fields of gleaming gold grain and pastoral villages nestled in between mountains. Once we hit the countryside we opened our windows and let in the intoxicating fresh country air.

In no time at all we had arrived. We drove by a park and the last remaining stragglers at the end of a marathon until we found ourselves in the part of town with narrow one-way streets and traditional Korean homes intermingled with seemingly empty mom and pop shops. Round and round we drove, circumnavigating the same two square blocks, searching in vain for this restaurant. More than once we pulled off to the side of the road or pulled into an empty parking (?) spot to consult various gps maps, scour the internet for more details, and/or ask directions from a similarly clueless passing stranger. It seemed as if nobody in town had heard of the place and apparently it did not exist on either Korean or GPS maps of which we tried at least three, punching in the name in both Hangul and Romanized Korean.

There’s a moment in getting lost when you have to decide whether to cut your losses or continue the maddening search out of principle. We are definitely the type of people that fall into the latter category. At this point we had so much time invested, were too annoyed, and had driven around the block one too many times, to give up now.

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DAEGU HIKING KOREA

Daegu | Apsan Autumn

daegu // fall in apsandaegu // fall in apsandaegu // fall in apsan

I have been watching the leaves change all around the city from our 17th floor apartment. The bright oranges and reds and yellows have been slowly creeping down the top of the mountain and peppering the trail beside the river. It’s been raining a lot — practically every day in November — and it wasn’t long before I started noticing the piles of fallen leaves swirling around in the wind and pockets of naked trees signaling winter was just around the corner.

Even though this is my favorite time of year we have spent most of it either traveling or holed up in our apartment eating copious amounts of baked bread and other homemade goodies. Lack of Vitamin D, the dreary rainy days (that we usually love), and a brief cold I caught left us with the fall blues. Instead of feeling invigorated like we usually do during fall we felt tired and worn out.

Nothing a walk in the woods couldn’t cure.

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MEMENTOS

9 YEARS

dad in korea

Once upon a time, my dad lived in Korea too –talk about following in your parent’s footsteps.
​This is a scan from one of his Korea slides. He’s the goofball in the middle with glasses.

It was inevitable that as I scrubbed through old posts from old blogs, combining them into my new blog space, that eventually I would find the posts from October 2006.

dear dad​

I don’t know why but I feel like I can communicate with you like this. Maybe it’s all in my head. You just don’t feel gone. Everything is just the way you left it (more or less) and I’m terrified of the day when it’s not.

I don’t know what’s wrong with me, but I can’t seem to grieve. I’m sad, but I feel okay. Okay as anyone can feel who just lost their dad. I know I will never see you again, but right now you still feel so close. I’m afraid of what time will do. I don’t want you to just be a memory.

It’s quiet, and it’s late, and I’m in the kitchen all alone. Alone, like you must have been so many nights out of the year. It makes me sad to think of you where I am sitting now, but it also makes me feel like you’re right here with me.

I wish I could have been here more for you. I wish you were here now. I wish that we could have tonight to put together a puzzle or just play a game of cards. It hasn’t quite registered that you are really gone forever and I’ll never get to do so many things with you.

I love you, daddy.

I miss you.

Coincidentally today, when I found this post, is the day when my dad passed away nine years ago. I wish I could go back in time to tell my nine-years-younger self to not worry about forgetting because even now, after all this time, my dad still feels so close. The missing part, however, that never goes away.​

BORYEONG KOREA

Boryeong Mud Festival | 보령머드축제

korea // boryeong mud festival

The Boryeong mud festival is probably the most well-known and popular Korean festival, at least for expats and foreign tourists. Originally started as a means to promote the therapeutic properties of mud and mud cosmetics, the festival has grown to such popularity that it is frequently featured on various things-to-do/places-to-get-f’d up-before-you-die-bucket-list type websites. In recent years the mud fest has become known as sort of as spring break-like destination with lots of booze, scantily clad foreigners looking to have a good time, and of course, mud.
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HOME MEMENTOS

Around This Time, Some Time Last Year

last december

I don’t mean to keep posting old photos but I can’t help it. Something about this season; this time of year. Every time I start updating my blog with more recent photos I get sucked right back into snapshots from a previous time, place, and life. These photos pop up like an old friend I haven’t seen in a while, and I cannot help myself but to stop and sit a while to revisit old memories. No wonder I never get around to posting photos until years after the fact.

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HOLIDAYS

My Annual List of Scary Halloween Movies

halloween 2011

Halloween 2011 — when Sly (and Pandora) waited by the door to scare the poor trick-o-treaters

We just returned from Japan and are most likely looking at another lazy weekend of making bread, cooking things in a crockpot, and binging on movies. Since it’s October, and since I love me some scary movies, I compiled a list of horror movies to take me through Halloween:
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JAPAN TRAVEL

Planes, Trains and Automobiles x 2

korea 》》 japan

I woke up at 4 am to get to the train station by 5 ish to catch a 6 am slow train (the only kind operating at that hour ) to Busan. You can pretty much synch your watch to the stops on a train route – the train is that consistently on sschedue, so when 7:25 rolled around and I found myself at a different station than I was supposed to be,  I had a brief moment of panic. The slower, more rural train I was on didn’t have a monitor announcing stops and I missed the conductor calling out the arrival station.

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